Desincrustation is sweeping the nation... and your pores!
Posted January 15, 2019
As a European esthetician I was trained to do deep cleansing facials with very careful extraction procedures. I would perform these regularly on almost everyone who had a facial. Teens dealing with problematic or acne prone skin issues, came to see me to ask for help, treatments and home care products. I believe that one of the most important skills an esthetician can learn is proper extraction techniques. To perform the most gentle and least painful extraction the key step is the proper skin softening process. The most common method and best known process to soften the skin is steaming the skin while using a softening product underneath. It could be a serum, a gel or a cream which contains softening ingredients depending on the brand being used. Sometimes this is not enough or there is a contraindication. The alternative or additional process is called desincrustation.
What does desincrustation mean?
Desincrustation is a deep cleansing treatment that softens and emulsifies sebum and keratin in the follicle. It is an ideal treatment for oily or congested skin to prepare for extractions. It can be used by itself after cleansing or if appropriate, incorporated with steaming.
The ideal way to perform desincrustation:
Using a combination of low voltage negative galvanic current and desincrustation gel, which provides a deep cleansing treatment.
Here’s a little bit of science:
Galvanic current is a low-level, continuous current that flows in one direction known as direct current (DC) just like the electricity from battery. “Galvanic treatments employ this low-level, medium amperage direct current to achieve a multiple skin benefits like stimulating cells, moving tissue fluid, softening up blackheads and driving ingredients deep into the epidermis.”
Depending on the polarity, use a water-soluble ionized [either positive (acid pH) or negative (alkaline pH) charged] solution which will pull or repel into the skin.
Desincrustation solutions are known to have an alkaline pH and negative charge.
“The desincrustation solution, combined with the action of the active negative electrode, results in the “saponification” of sebum. This alkali and sebum reaction forms sodium hydroxide (lye) due to the fatty stearic acids in sebum, reacting with the alkali to form soap. In the skin, the reaction softens and liquefies sebum, and this facilitates the easier (and highly-satisfying) release of even the most resistant blackhead, especially in hard-to-extract, "tight," finely textured, sometimes dehydrated skin”
How and where to perform desincrustation during the facial:
Adjust the micro current machine so that the active electrode is the negative (-) and the inactive is the positive (+). The active electrode operates as the working electrode and the inactive electrode is what the client holds.
After finishing the cleanse portion of the facial (cleanser, toner, and mechanical exfoliator), a desincrustation solution is applied to both the skin and the gauze/cotton covering the active electrode which is then moved over the affected area. It is important to start the treatment at 0 intensity then gradually increasing as everyone has a different sensitivity against electric currents. Apply the desincrustation for 5-8 minutes, depending if it’s incorporated with a steamer or not. When choosing both the steamer and desincrustation together, use the steamer first then use desincrustation. This is then followed by manual extraction and the application of a purifying and calming disinfecting lotion, solution or serum with an acidic pH to make sure the pH of the skin is balanced. After completed, return back to the protocol of the treatment chosen by the client.
What are the benefit of performing desincrustation?
· Helps eliminate accumulation of oil that causes acne
· Works on deep cleansing seborrheic and congested skin
· Stimulates grey, sluggish skin
· Dilates the follicle
· Increase blood and lymphatic circulation
· Attracts negative ions
What are the contraindications to desincrustation?
· Metal implants such as pacemakers, metal plates in the face, metal fillers
· Facial piercings
· Heart conditions
· Skin infection and/or irritation
What types of products to use?
Desincrustation solutions usually contain various forms and concentrations of sodium (salt) like sodium chloride, sodium bicarbonate and sodium carbonate. Look for professional products that deliver a salt solution infused with calming and purifying botanical extracts like Quillaja Saponaria, Burdock Root, Ivy and Watercress to reduce inflammation.
Desincrustation products Repechage provides:
There are two ways that Repechage provides desincrustation. One is to perform a Clear Complexion Clinical facial and using the Repechage Pro-Extract Desincrustation Solution, (16fl oz/480ml). This product comes in PRO size only, but can be purchased by itself. We have a 30% off PROMO on this item until February 28, 2019.
The alternative way of desincrustation that Repechage offers in a quite unique way. They have created the Hydra Medic Facial using a desincrustation rubber mask for softening the skin and opening the pores for extraction. A desincrustation powder and gel have to be mixed together right before the application. Leave the mixture on for 8-10 minutes. Next, peel off the mask and proceed with the extraction. Afterwards follow with the rest of the protocol of the treatment. This mask is a part of the Hydra Medic Boxed Facial and unfortunately cannot be purchased by itself. We have a PROMO on this item as well, buy 1 get 50% off the 2nd (ends February 28, 2019).